Tanneries Chouara

For over a thousand years, the Chouara Tannery has kept alive a leatherworking tradition that has remained largely unchanged since medieval times. Nestled in the Souk el-Chouara quarter of Fès el-Bali, it is instantly recognizable by its dozens of circular vats filled with vividly colored dyes — saffron and pomegranate for yellows, poppy for reds, indigo for blues, henna for browns.

The entirely manual process begins with soaking hides in baths of lime and natural ammonia (traditionally derived from pigeon droppings) to soften and de-hair them, before dyeing and sun-drying. The resulting leather is then crafted into babouches, bags, and jackets sold throughout the neighborhood.

Visits take place from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, which offer a panoramic view over the vats — a sprig of fresh mint is traditionally offered at the entrance to ease the smell, which is real and worth preparing for.